I don't know if it already exists, but if there had to be a list of "The 100 places in South Africa you have to see before you die" then Gamkaskloof would definitely make it on to the list. To get there you have to cross half of the Swartberg Mountain Pass, which would probably also be on that list, and then approximately 50 kilometres down the Gamkaskloof valley until you reach the place called "The Hell". To get to The Hell you need a bit more than just a 4x4 or an adventure bike, you need time, skill and determibation as well. It takes approximately 2 hours to cover a 37 km road, and when you get there you realize that there is not much to do there ather than taking the 2 hour drive back again. So, it is all the way back up the valley until you reach the Swartberg Mountain Pass again, for more twists and turns until you feel like you are on Mother Earth again. In the biking circles you are still considered a rookie if you have not done The Hell trip with your adventure bike, so today was my big day to finally graduate.
I was fortunate to have a biking buddy with me today in the form of my brother-in-law. He is actually a Harley Davidson fan and when he decided on buying a second bike just to commute, he chose one of Harley's younger cousins, the Buel Ulysses X12X. Considered to be an "adventure sports bike", despite the fact that is has a drive belt instead of a chain, my BIL thought that going to The Hell with me wasn't such a bad idea. So it was me and him starting off with the Montagu Pass and then on to Oudshoorn, all on gravel to warm up and finally making our way towards the Swartberg Mountains. The Swartberg Mountains are probably the most impressive mountain range in Southern Africa, and the Swartberg Mountain Pass probably one of the most spectacular mountain passes in Africa. But the plan was not to do the entire mountain pass, but just up to the turn-off to Gamkaskloof which is a kilometer or two after reaching "Die Top" (The Top). The early morning gravel ride went exceptionally well. We took the same route I took the day before and riding at 120km/h on the smooth gravel was just clean fun. Well, clean for me, he was covered in dust. In Oudshoorn we filled our stomachs and bikes and headed in the direction of the Swartberg Mountains. On our way up we stopped for one or two pictures but were more excited about what was lying ahead than getting a good shot. We've heard so many stories about this desolate place where no-one will ever survive alone, and we couldn't wait to see it ourselves. I have been over the Swartberg Mountains many times, even crossed it on a mountain bike before, but never took the turn-off to Gamkaskloof. "You need at least a 4x4 to get there", my dad always used to say, and everyone else that has been there confirmed that. Or if you want to be added to the "Aventure Bike Riders Club", then you need to do it on an adventure bike....even if it is a Buel.
Friendly warning signs |
Seemingly never ending road |
After we had a "f@#&n duur" beer instead of the "f@#&n duur" cooldrink, we decided to head home. We were riding much faster than on our way in, but we knew what to expect and we were going for it. It was here where I hit the rock and dented my rim, but apart from that, we were riding like pros. I think I positively earned my off-road biking wings today, and so did my BIL on his Buel. We passed a couple of drifts as well, and I am rather pleased to say that was also "passed with flying colours". I still get nervous when I see a road covered by water, but after today I think I am much more confident that I might get through the next one without actually dropping my bike in the water and soaking my camera in the process as well. When we reached the Swartberg Mountain Pass again, we were quite pleased with ourselves. Unfortunately when we reached "The Top" again, the Buel's drive belt broke. There we were, stuck on the top of the Swartberg Mountains with no cell phone reception. I rode down the pass the call the AA, but as I was speaking to them a pickup approached me from behind. On the pick-up was my BIL and his Buel. A Good Samaritan offered to take him all the way home to Reebok. Finding a spare drive belt for a Buel in the Southern Cape is not going to be easy, but that is tomorrow's worry. We reached our goal. We managed to get to The Hell and back....well...sort of back. It was definitely one of my best bike trips so far, one to be remembered for a long time. And I can vouch, it is definitely one of the 100 places in South Africa to see before you die.
Looking down at The Hell in Gamkaskloof |
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